Firstly, let’s start by saying that this article may challenge popular belief. Vitamin A, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Retinoic Acid – these are ingredients that have been hailed as the anti-ageing miracle workers in skin care. Known, and published, for their ability to encourage healthy cell renewal, collagen production, reduce wrinkles, it’s no wonder that many product companies have formulated with these little heroes to claim skin transformation benefit.
Now we all know that not all A’s are created equally – some are more stable/less volatile/less active than others, but the long and the short of it is, that we are seeing a wave of increased sensitivity, resultant from the level of actives our customers are using on their skin.
In January 2018, Professional Beauty Magazine published an article where Dr. Ronald Moy states “There is little scientific evidence that topically applied vitamin A actually improves skin health very much. Big pharma is largely behind the popular belief, although most of the original evidence was based on a study of just 17 people over 12 weeks, which showed that the patients got small benefits (and irritated skin).”
Too much (and too often) Vitamin A, just like we’ve seen in earlier years with glycolic acid, causes a dangerously thin epidermis, reduced ability to heal, reduced capacity to house moisture (cue a dramatic increase in dehydration) and redness – sensitisation, prolonged erythema, irritation – all factors that lead inevitably to premature ageing, hyper pigmentation and sometimes, rosacea.
So, in our quest for the eternal fountain of youth, are we in fact catalysing skin ageing
with certain actives?
Ingredients have come a long way. Each year, hundreds of new complexes and molecules become available, after years and years of research and case studies. Vitamin A therefore, whilst not strictly ‘enemy of the skin’, has in fact been pushed off its pedestal to make way for hero peptides and skin nutrients that focus firstly on skin strength, hydration and cellular communication to ensure a healthy breeding ground for collagen regeneration, cell birth and skin maintenance.
It needs to be mentioned here that the FDA in the USA has been trying to ban topical application of Vitamin A over the counter for its documented increased risk of skin cancer when used on a lesion or wound. This follows several therapeutic studies cited by the FDA in their lobbying of Congress. The big tip here is never use Vitamin A in conjunction with needling.
Just as the body requires a delicate balance of nutrients to perform at peak, so too does our major organ of protection. Any over powering ingredient therefore can disturb the unique equilibrium of the skin, resulting in cell weakness and malfunction, impaired barrier and undesired skin conditions.
At SKINFAKTOR, it has always been our number one priority to consider the effects (good and bad) of the collective ingredient diet you feed the skin – daily, weekly, monthly.
In successful skin and age management planning, the ideal is to build balanced skin care products that not only stimulate skin processes but restore balance, ensuring optimal functioning of this protective organ. And this right here, is what we at SKINFAKTOR are all about!