MODERN SKIN PROTECTION

Any modern protection product MUST consider the modern environment to be effective. This includes ingredients that protect not only against UV, but against Infrared, free radicals, pollutants, changes in temperature and actively work to repair existing damaged cells.

Rather than just come to you with the problem, let’s look at just some of the ways that the industry is responding to the effects of IR and pollutants, and how best to protect against our modern lifestyle.

(all as featured in our very own Element Protector!)

1.  DIPEPTIDE-3 AMINOHEXANOATE This miracle peptide stimulates the
production of Heat Shock Proteins within the skin, therefore improving the
skin’s resilience to stress – particularly stress caused by temperature
variance e.g. the heat caused by IR

2.  PSEUDOALTEROMONAS EXOPOLYSACCHARIDES It has a super-long name, but it’s not to be forgotten. This ingredient provides far superior water retention ability to traditional Hyaluronic Acid and therefore reduces moisture loss and stabilises moisture retention even in extreme variations of climate.

3.  DIAMINOPROPIONOYL TRIPEPTIDE-33 Reinforces the skin’s natural immune response to reduce the risk of infection, free radical damage, airborne pollutants and microbial growth. Thus inhibiting the conversion of IR created Reactive Oxygen Species into the more harmful free radicals.

Whilst there are few ingredients that directly protect against infrared (the main one being iron-oxide – but the orange colouring of this particles makes for difficulty in mainstream product acceptance), the aim is to buffer the effect and ensure that the cell has amplified strength in coping with the fluctuation in temperature.

HOW ARE YOU PROTECTING YOUR SKIN??

RED HOT. Infrared – the bad guy.

Infrared Radiation (IR) poses a huge threat to the longevity of skin cells and plays a critical role in how fast that the skin ages. The beauty industry is focusing time, research and money into ingredients that help buffer or neutralise damage caused by IR.

Terri Vinson, well respected cosmetic chemist and formulator, has warned the industry that “infrared protection is the next big challenge against skin ageing. Recent clinical studies have shown that infrared damage is just as destructive to the skin as UV rays and is also a key contributor in photo-ageing”. (for full article, head to Professional Beauty Magazine)

Did you know, that of the radiation emitted by the sun that reaches the skin, only 7% is Ultra Violet!?? (Yep, those SPF sunscreens are only protecting you against 7% of the environment…) 39% is visible light, and a STAGGERING 54% is Infrared Radiation.

SO, WHAT IS IR???
Invisible to the human eye, IR is felt as heat in the atmosphere, is emitted by the Sun and falls between 760nm-1400nm on the electromagnetic spectrum. Although there are three categories of IR – IRA, IRB + IRC, in the industry of skin health + longevity, we’re most concerned with IRA – Near Infrared Radiation. Not only is IR emitted by the sun, there are additional, man- made sources of infrared that can also affect our skin e.g. infrared lamps (which on a side note are a big NO- NO for skin!).

WHY IT’S A BAD-GUY
Mibelle Biochemistry released studies at the end of 2017 indicating that IRA (near infrared) ‘induces significant production of free radicals in the dermis and diminishes the skin’s anti-oxidant capacity’. What was discovered, is that although both Ultra Violet and IR generate reactive oxygen species (unstable by-products), the ROS generated by IR pass over the cell membrane, into the cell, where they directly affect the mitochondria, or energy house. The ROS eventually leak into the cytoplasm (the body of the cell) and signal a cascade which leads to the up regulation of MMP-1 (the enzyme that breaks down collagen) PLUS the down regulation of collagen type 1 production.

{In English – collagen is broken down prematurely, replacement collagen production is slowed, the cell’s metabolism becomes sluggish and free radicals are generated, causing the skin to malfunction.}

IN CONCLUSION, these studies found that IRA is a primary contributor to the photo ageing process which accelerates age spots, wrinkles, skin discolouration and causes the skin to lose its elasticity and firmness. In addition IR can cause skin irritation, sensitivity and dehydration.

For Mibelle Biochemistry, this research lead to the development of new ingredients that could minimise the damage of IR within the skin.

Dermatologist and skincare specialist Andrew Birnie has spoken about a discussion he had at the Americal Academy of Dermatology: “one of the things being discussed was whether visible light such as HEV and Infrared ought to be protected against in our sunscreens”.

It’s an interesting thought. Why are we not protecting against 54% of the sun’s radiation?? Why are we not talking about just how damaging IR can be to human cells???

Any modern protection product MUST consider the modern environment to be effective. This includes ingredients that protect not only against UV, but against IR, free radicals, pollutants, changes in temperature and actively work to repair existing damaged cells.